“Are you heading to the town or the archaeological site?" the colectivo (shared van) driver asks me as we approach Ek Balam. It’s a fair question—there are two places with the same name, but my destination is the latter.
When we talk about the archaeological site of Ek Balam, we’re referring to an ancient Maya city that thrived between 300 and 900 CE, during what is known as the Classic Period. After its decline and the rise of Chichén Itzá as the dominant regional power, it was abandoned and forgotten until adventurers like French explorer Désiré Charnay visited it in 1886. A century later, in 1986, Ek Balam was officially opened to the public following exploration and restoration efforts by INAH.
As for its name, Ek Balam is often literally translated as "dark jaguar" (éek’ meaning black and balam meaning jaguar in Maya). However, it is also known as "jaguar star" or "bright star jaguar", which sounds far more poetic. This second translation isn’t random—while éek’ means black, eek’ (without the accent) translates to star.
The archaeological site of Ek Balam
The excavated area encompasses the ceremonial center, surrounded by remnants of three walls that once protected and regulated entry. Here, you’ll find the main structures, including the vaulted passageway that welcomes visitors, the ballgame court, the building known as Las Gemelas, and the Acropolis, home to the Royal Palace or Structure 1.
The Acropolis: Ek Balam’s most iconic building
Measuring 160 meters (525 feet) long, 70 meters (230 feet) wide, and 32 meters (105 feet) high, the Royal Palace is the largest structure in Ek Balam. Thirty-two meters (105 feet) may not sound like much, but climbing to the top of the Acropolis is no easy feat. The steep and uneven steps require effort—and a head for heights. However, the breathtaking view from the top makes it all worthwhile. From up there, the vast jungle stretches out in all directions, and you may even spot distant towns—could that tiny dot on the horizon be Valladolid?
More than just a pyramid, Structure 1 is a multi-level complex with six tiers, two elevated plazas, numerous chambers, and a mausoleum known as Sak Xok Naah or "The White House of the Counting." Located on the fourth level, this chamber is one of the site's most striking features. Its façade resembles the open jaws of a reptilian creature, with massive teeth rising from the ground—an image associated with the “Earth Monster.” In Maya beliefs, those who were "swallowed" by its jaws would gain access to the underworld. It was within these chambers that the k'uhul ajaw (sacred ruler) of Ek Balam, Ukit Kan Lek Took', was buried. His tomb’s discovery has provided much of what we know about this extraordinary city.
At the top of the structure, you'll notice two figures with what appear to be wings, giving them an almost angelic look. Of course, they are not angels. However, their intricate detailing and remarkable state of preservation may lead you to wonder: Is this façade original, or was it reconstructed? You can stop wondering—the façade is entirely original. As archaeologists Leticia Vargas and Víctor R. Castillo explain, these carvings remained so well-preserved because, in ancient times, the Maya built a protective wall around them, concealing them until their rediscovery around the year 2000.
As mentioned, the ruler responsible for Ek Balam’s golden age was Ukit Kan Lek Took', who elevated the city to the capital of the Kingdom of Talol in 770 CE. For at least three generations, Talol was a major influence on the region’s politics and arts, to the extent that its pottery and painting techniques have been classified separately by archaeologists.
Archaeo-ecological tour of Ek Balam
With nearly fifty restored structures, there is plenty to see in Ek Balam. However, there is an alternative route: at the first intersection on the entrance path to the archaeological site, you will find the eco-archaeological trail (it is signposted). Follow it, and 600 meters later, you will reach the Acropolis from the side. Continue along the path that circles the Royal Palace, and once on the other side, you will see another side path that leads back near the entrance. This detour is interesting because you will get to see native vegetation (chakás, ceibas, pich trees, and papayas), listen to and spot birds and reptiles, and come across several chultunes (water storage systems), as well as structures that have yet to be excavated or restored.
Ek Balam is actually much larger than what is currently on display. It is estimated that the city covered around 15 square kilometers (almost 6 sq miles), with remains even found near the nearby X’Canché cenote, which was one of its water sources. While the cenote is not part of the archaeological site, it is worth visiting for a refreshing swim and to gain a better understanding of how the ancient Maya lived.
Tips to make the most of your visit to Ek Balam
Despite its significance and grandeur, Ek Balam is not as heavily visited as Chichén Itzá. In fact, on the shared van I took from Valladolid ($70 pesos), I was the only one of four passengers who got off at Ek Balam. Inside, there were more visitors, but it wasn’t overcrowded. Most of them gathered around the Acropolis.
Recently, the INAH gave the site some much-needed maintenance (a jaguar’s touch-up!), including cleaning, exploration, and restoration of buildings, as well as updating signage with information about history, local wildlife, vegetation, and geography.
Although not an extremely large site, you should wear comfortable shoes and plan to spend about three hours exploring, as you’ll want to take your time enjoying the views from the top and taking photos. Another tip: bring water, a hat or cap, and sunscreen if you are sensitive to the sun. But above all, bring your curiosity—Ek Balam will amaze you!
- Ek Balam’s occupation period: 300 BCE – Spanish Conquest (from the Middle Preclassic to the arrival of the Spaniards)
- Peak period: 600 – 900 CE (Late/Terminal Classic)
- Location: 190 km (118 miles) east of Mérida and 28 km (17 miles) north of Valladolid, along the highway to Tizimín. Seven kilometers (4.3 miles) past Temozón, take the detour toward Santa Rita, then follow another road leading to Ek Balam.
- How to get there: Private or rental car; shared taxi from Valladolid ($70 pesos).
- Facilities: Tour guides, restrooms, handcraft shop, snacks and water for sale, ramps for people with reduced mobility, and marked trails, suitable for children and seniors.
Entrance fees to Ek Balam:
- Federal fee: $100 pesos
- Free for seniors (60+), children under 13, retirees, pensioners, people with disabilities, active teachers, and students.
- Free for Mexican citizens and residents every Sunday.
- State fee: $461 pesos (foreigners), $127 pesos (Mexican citizens)
- Yucatán residents are exempt upon proof of residence.
- Seniors, children under 13, retirees, pensioners, people with disabilities, and teachers are exempt from the state fee.
- Opening hours: Every day, 8 am - 5 pm
- Nearby sites & activities:
- Be amazed by and, if you wish, take a refreshing dip in X’Canché cenote
- Visit Temozón to explore the San Agustín temple (dating back to the 18th century), enjoy its famous smoked meat, or shop for wooden furniture
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