Amidst the time-worn stones and whispers of the past, legend has it that a labyrinth of mysteries exists beneath the surface of Mérida's Centro. In this city of colonial charm and buried secrets, the underground passages seem to murmur hidden purposes, as there are many versions that have been told about their past function.
One of the passageways likely extended from the Temple of Our Lady of Consolation (known as the Nuns’ Church or Iglesia de las Monjas) to the Cathedral, similarly connecting to the former convent of La Mejorada, and so forth to various convents and parts of the city.
Discover some tales
Some of the most haunting tales involve abandoned human fetuses, remnants of an ancestral taboo. It is said that the stone walls of these passages may have witnessed scores of nuns forced to make heart-wrenching decisions, leaving behind unwanted children. However, remember that all these stories are legends recounted with too much certainty amidst the excitement of rumors.
Another theory states that the tunnels are attributed to the Maya, who, as masters of architecture and symbolism, wove a maze beneath their pyramids as a reflection of the intricate fabric of their beliefs and practices. It is a fact that beneath the central Plaza Diamante, the stones conceal an underground structure, a silent testament to the Maya's ability to meld the worlds from above to below into a single reality.
The versions with more credibility suggest that these passageways might have served as escape routes in times of danger: secure spaces to hide from classic high-sea pirates. The concealed small vaults, like gems in the earth, harbored weapons and precious treasures. At the dawn of the Revolution, these corridors became custodians of buried stories and safeguarded riches.
Archaeologist Sergio Grosjean Abimerhi's pen unravels a different perspective. The notion that the tunnels were a means of excavation for the construction of the original houses and buildings in the ancient Maya city of T'ho adds an earthly dimension to myths and legends. The inhabitants of yesteryears, driven by necessity and creativity, shaped these corridors into a tapestry of utility and meaning.
The voices of those who once wandered through these mazes echoed in the ears of the author, conveying their memories and experiences. Elderly individuals who still enjoy the fresh air outside their homes today crossed stone thresholds in their youth, revealing the reality behind the fantasy, allowing glimpses of truths intertwined with the passages beneath Mérida.
In this city of cobblestone alleys and colonial façades, the underground passageways tell a story beyond what the eye can see. Beneath the city, amidst shadows and stones, mysteries linger, waiting to be uncovered by those willing to listen to the whisper of history.
Down into Mérida’s Secret Tunnels: Noche de Leyendas
Humorous, exciting and historically accurate scenes depicting the Conquest, the founding of Mérida, and other episodes of the Viceroyalty period: you can expect all this, and more, at the Noche de Leyendas in Mérida.
The tour
It’s 9 pm, and I am sitting on the sidewalk outside the Teatro José Peón Contreras with the other attendees while we wait for the show to begin. Families, couples, tourists, and even pets were welcomed by a narrator dressed in period attire and an accompanying harlequin.
Our magical visit through downtown Mérida kicked off with stories of the University (UADY) building and the Parque de Santa Lucia, as well as anecdotes and laughter coming from the characters and the crowd. We make a stop at Parque Hidalgo to commemorate our Maya ancestors, and then we continue our itinerary to the Catedral de San Ildefonso. One of the most important chapters of Yucatán’s history is represented in the atrium of the cathedral: the evangelization of the Maya people and the burning of their codices. Lit torches (don’t worry, they’re under control!) add dramatic flair to the scene.
We continue towards City Hall for the representation of the founding of Mérida. By this point, we are completely immersed in our journey to the past and ready to explore the underground alleys across the street.
Only Noche de Leyendas has access to these tunnels, and the mix of intrigue and humor make the experience both mysterious and surprising. Nothing to fear!
The last stop of this hour and a half long tour is the former Convento Monjas, which currently houses the Casa de la Cultura. As we stand together in the dark, we listen to the story of Dolores, a nun from the Order of the Immaculate Conception; among other related stories. At the end, the group of attendees and actors takes a picture together, and we finish our fun evening learning about the Centro Histórico’s history.
This cultural activity is great for locals and tourists alike. The event is under the direction of Maricruz Hernández, who also wrote the screenplay. Noche de Leyendas Mérida will be celebrating nine years of theater representations this March. The performances are in Spanish.
Where and when?
Noche de Leyendas
FB: Noche de Leyendas Mérida Yucatán
Friday 8:50 pm and Saturday 8:30 pm
$200 pesos adults and $100 pesos kids
Tickets for sale infront of the San Ildefonso Cathedral on Calle 60 by 61, Centro
Check special hours during holidays and vacations
Editorial by Pamela Fernández and Violeta H. Cantarell.
Photography by Noche de Leyendas, and Arianne Osalde for use in Yucatán Today.
First published in Yucatán Today print and digital magazine no. 375 in March 2019 and magazine no. 429 in September 2023.
Related articles
