Recently, I had the extraordinary opportunity to access the Progreso Lighthouse, which has been closed to the public since 2005. This special visit sparked a deep curiosity about the past of this iconic building, which many of us grew up admiring from afar during beach outings.
My research took me back to the days of the henequén boom in our region. During the early days of maritime trade in the state, the town of Sisal had been designated as the coastal hub for exporting Yucatán’s “green gold.” However, its location was far from ideal for such activity. This is where the story of our famed lighthouse begins.
A growing port
By the mid-19th century, there was already talk of replacing Sisal as Yucatán’s main port in search of a location closer to the city of Mérida. This search led to the founding of the town of Progreso, envisioned as the perfect candidate to take over that role (a projection that came to fruition in 1941 with the completion of Progreso’s Fiscal Pier).
To speed up the process, in July 1870, the Ministry of Finance authorized the construction of a customs building in the new town. Exactly one year later, the Maritime Customs Office was moved from Sisal to Progreso, and the port’s first pier, a simple metal structure, was inaugurated.
The next step for Progreso’s growth would be, at last, the construction of the famous lighthouse. It would bring multiple benefits to the state: it would aid local fishing boats during nighttime navigation and, along with the pier, allow deeper-draft vessels to dock for henequén trade.
After installing the first observatory on the customs building’s rooftop and going through a complex approval process, construction of the lighthouse finally began in 1891. American engineer John W. Glenn led the project, although the Ministry of Communications and Public Works later modified it to replace the original iron design with a masonry structure.
The engineer oversaw the work until he contracted malaria, which led to his death; his son, John Percy Glenn, who had been working as his assistant, took over and completed the construction. Standing at an impressive 36 meters (118 feet) tall, the Progreso Lighthouse was officially inaugurated in 1893.
Features and curiosities of the Progreso Lighthouse
With 120 spiral steps and seven vertical rungs, the cylindrical tower was built on triangular-shaped foundations. Small windows surround it to allow natural light inside.
The structure is topped by a large dome, and its lamp originally ran on petroleum vapor incandescence. Today, the original French bronze motor remains, now adapted to run on electricity. The lantern has a 750-millimeter optic and a range of 33 nautical miles (about 60 km or 37 miles).
Over time, the site has been modernized to incorporate advanced communication technology. To oversee and safeguard the operation of this equipment, access to the lighthouse has been restricted to the public since 2005.
Although its interior is off-limits, the Progreso Lighthouse can still be admired up close from the street. It’s easy to reach, as it’s located just a couple of blocks behind the popular boardwalk, near the fiscal pier. Next to it stands the old customs building, now Casa de la Cultura (the House of Culture), which hosts a variety of art workshops for the community and also houses a tourist information booth.
This sturdy lighthouse, which recently celebrated its 132nd anniversary, has become a symbol of identity for the people of Progreso. More than a century after its construction, this local icon continues to serve as a steadfast guide for ships arriving at our port, not just cargo vessels anymore, but elegant cruise ships carrying hundreds of travelers eager to explore our coastline.
Sources:
First published in Yucatán Today print and digital magazine no. 453, in September 2025.
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