Río Lagartos is a port on the eastern coast of Yucatán, famous for its natural attractions, including mangroves full of wading birds and peaceful crocodiles.
However, every Day of the Dead or Finados season, Río Lagartos transforms. It becomes the setting for the Camino de Ánimas festival, a gathering that celebrates the traditions, memories, and community of the coastal towns. More than a festival, it's a vibrant expression of Janal Pixan—a shared experience that invites visitors to remember and discover the deep bond that unites families and communities with their departed loved ones.
The festival typically lasts for four days with a variety of activities for children, adults, and visitors alike. From the very start, the air fills with the aromas of traditional cuisine: freshly baked mukbilpollo, atole, and both candied papaya and pumpkin. In their homes, families prepare altars adorned with candles, flowers, photographs, and offerings. But the festival extends beyond private homes and into the streets and impromptu stages, where the entire community takes part.
The program includes a bit of everything: rituals, artistic performances, guided tours, and even costume contests. All with a clear goal: to keep the tradition of Janal Pixan alive and share it with those who come from afar. Río Lagartos opens its doors with warmth and hospitality, showing that remembering those who are no longer with us can also be a reason for unity, learning, and celebration.
The Paseo de Pixanes: A ritual on the water
In Maya tradition, pixanes (pixano’ob) are the souls that return during these days to visit their loved ones. In Río Lagartos, that belief has been transformed into the heart of the Paseo de Pixanes, the main activity of the festival.
Like other Paseos de Ánimas (Stroll of the Souls) in the state, the one in Río Lagartos represents the return of souls to the earthly plane—but in this case, on boats on the estuary. In this nighttime procession, the community's boats become floating altars. Decorated with flowers, candles, floral arches, and colored lights, the boats move slowly across the water, casting glowing reflections that light up the dark night.
Each year, families, tour guides, and visitors join the journey down the estuary, with each boat decorated in its own unique style, always in tribute to the season and in honor of the deceased.
Participants, dressed in traditional ternos, hipiles, and guayaberas, wear vibrant colors and floral details. Their faces are painted to represent the souls, with smiles that celebrate life. The procession is accompanied by music by Maya performers who use tribal sounds to evoke the strength of the tradition. The journey begins at the Chiquilá cenote (at the end of the boardwalk) and ends at the “T” dock, where the atmosphere fills with culture from jarana dance performances, costume contests, and altar exhibitions.
The best part of this festival is that you're not a spectator; you become part of the experience. If you plan to be in Río Lagartos for this occasion, you can reserve your spot on one of the decorated boats through participating hotels and restaurants and experience the Paseo de Pixanes, a truly unique journey in Yucatán. You can also explore the town, join the walk to the cemetery, or try the flavors of Janal Pixan at the special menus prepared by local restaurants.
From my experience, the best way to enjoy it is to stay for the whole weekend in Río Lagartos. This way, you not only take part in the festival activities but also get to enjoy nature tours and the unique landscape of the Biosphere Reserve, with its flamingos, mangroves, and starry skies that make this port an unforgettable destination.
The full program will be announced soon on the social media pages of the Río Lagartos City Hall and the Río Lagartos Hotels and Restaurants Association.
FB: H. Ayuntamiento de Rio Lagartos 2024-2027
FB: Asociación de Hoteles y Restaurantes de Río Lagartos
Photography by Diana Villordo for use in Yucatán Today.
First published in Yucatán Today print and digital magazine no. 454, in October 2025.
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