Oxkutzcab, the Carnival of Xtoles and Colors

Every year, carnaval season sweeps through every corner of Yucatán. However, each municipality celebrates in its own unique way, making the experience of each carnaval special. One such example is the Carnaval of Oxkutzcab.

Alborada Thursday: the Oxkutzcab Carnival begins

The festivities in this municipality last for six days, kicking off on Thursday night with the coronation of that year’s king and queen. The royals are introduced to the public, accompanied by their comparsa (parade troupe), proudly showcasing their outfits full of sparkle and color.

Immediately after, the celebration continues with “la alborada,” a parade that runs through the entire town. Between dances, costumes, and pure joy, the true Yucatecan excitement fills the streets, welcoming the Carnival festivities.

Friday: Xtoles night at the Oxkutzcab Carnival

On Friday afternoon, the streets are filled with people wearing hipiles and traditional clothing, but with a fun twist: everyone adds humorous or playful accessories. You’ll see wigs, bows, sunglasses, crowns, and more. From children in arms to elderly adults, everyone is ready for the eagerly awaited Night of the Xtoles.

Dressing up as an “Xtol” isn’t just about wearing a hipil in a funny way; it’s about enthusiasm, having fun, and staying up all night. The Night of the Xtoles has become a beloved tradition at Oxkutzcab’s carnival. Ask any local, and they’ll tell you this is the night you can’t miss. The streets fill with groups of friends and entire families, laughing and dancing to the sounds of Yucatecan charanga music, taking over every corner of the town.

On the following days—Saturday, Sunday, and Monday—the celebrations continue with various community fairs, where parade groups from nearby towns are invited to participate. Sunday is the most crowded day, thanks to the grand closing dance, accompanied by a local band or musical group.

Tuesday: The Battle of the Flowers

On Tuesday, the famous “Batalla de las Flores (Battle of the Flowers)” is celebrated; this tradition was once also common in Mérida but has faded away over time. On this day, people gather at a spot known as "Siglo XXI" to form a massive caravan of cars decorated like floats, with balloons, fabrics, flags, and banners, among other decorations. In these vehicles ride people in costumes who throw candy and other items, like flower necklaces or t-shirts, to people on the sidelines, who crowd the streets eagerly awaiting the parade.

The atmosphere is fun and family-friendly, with everyone joining in the cheerful spirit and even encouraging others to join in the dancing. The event begins in the afternoon, around 6 pm, and runs until 10 pm at the Municipal Palace, where, at midnight, the “Burning of Juan Carnaval” takes place.

Juan Carnaval and his will

“Juan Carnaval” is symbolically represented by a rag doll, which is set on fire while his will is read aloud. In this humorous and ironic will, he leaves his belongings to various people involved in the year's biggest scandals or events in the town.

A unique tradition in Oxkutzcab is that, days before the carnival festivities begin, “Carnaval newspapers” are given out at the Town Hall; these include the written will of Juan Carnaval.

Amidst laughter and applause, both the locals of Oxkutzcab and visitors bid farewell to Juan Carnaval, along with the great and fun-filled days of celebration, eagerly awaiting the next year’s festivities.

Photo by Goretty Ramos for use in Yucatán Today

First published in Yucatán Today print and digital magazine no. 445, in January 2025.