What separates human beings from wild animals? How do we perceive and treat those who are different from us? These are some of the powerful questions posed by “Juan Balam,” a play being staged at the Xocén Indigenous Theater (Teatro Campesino e Indígena de Xocén) this weekend.
A mother without a baby, a tiger cub without a mother, and a promise that grows increasingly difficult to keep. “Juan Balam” is a moving reflection on human nature and the yearning for belonging, appropriate for all ages. It is based on the Argentine play “Salvajada” by Mauricio Kartún, an adaptation of “Juan Darién,” a short story by Horacio Quiroga—often called the Uruguayan Edgar Allan Poe. Dozens of players—all members of the Xocén Indigenous Theater Lab—bring the tale to life in the best possible setting for a story that takes place in the jungle.
You see, Xocén, the setting is more than a backdrop; it is a living character. The Xocén Indigenous Theater is entirely outdoors, using the trees, rocks, and the very mounds of the earth as its set design—a truly immersive experience like no other. You’ll sit on stone bleachers (bringing cushions or a yoga mat for comfort is encouraged) with nothing but the trees and night sky above your head.
The Xocén Theater Lab dates back to 1989, conceived as "theater for the people, by the people." For decades, its mission has been to bring theater to smaller communities who may not be able to travel to larger cities (like Mérida) or who may be more comfortable enjoying a show in their native Maya language. “Juan Balam” marks the first collaboration between the Xocén Indigenous Theater Lab and El Sótano Colectivo Escénico from Mérida. This meeting of Maya theatrical tradition and contemporary urban direction truly makes the production shine.
“Juan Balam” is fully bilingual—in Spanish and Maya. Don’t be discouraged if your Spanish (or Maya) isn’t perfect: the play closely follows the short story’s original plot (except for Juan’s encounter with the beast tamer). If you read the story in advance, you will surely be able to follow along, and we can almost guarantee you will enjoy the performance. The actors’ physicality, the costumes, and the lighting, in addition to the amazing setting, are an essential part of the experience.
For three nights only—October 24, 25, and 26, at 6 pm—this is your chance to catch an unforgettable performance.
If you’re in Valladolid, Xocén is just a short taxi ride away. If you are in Mérida, the trip is absolutely worth it! Make a day trip of it: you can spend the day in Xocén itself, known as the center of the Maya world, or explore nearby Valladolid and the picturesque Uayma, where the Espadas family pottery workshop is.
If you go
How much are the tickets to “Juan Balam”?
Admission is entirely free.
What time does the play start, and how long is it?
The play begins at 6 pm, and is about 90 minutes long.
Is there food or beverages available for sale at the theater?
No; there is, however, a small, family-run pizza place across the street, where local snacks are sold.
How to get to the Xocén Indigenous Theater?
Xocén is about 20 minutes southeast of Valladolid. From Valladolid you can take a taxi or shared van ($30 pesos p/p, each way) and walk the short distance from the stop to the theater. ADO offers buses to Valladolid from the Centro Histórico TAME terminal on calle 69 x 68 y 70. Tapanco Centro Cultural and El Sótano Colectivo Escénico are also organizing a van service leaving Mérida at 2:30 pm, for $450 pesos per person, round trip. Space is limited, so sign up now.
Are the concrete bleachers uncomfortable?
A lightweight cushion or thick yoga mat should be enough for you to forget you’re sitting on concrete. However, if sitting without a backrest is hard for you, a foldable chair might be a good idea; if you bring one, please plan to sit all the way in the back so as not to block other people’s view.
Where can I find the original "Juan Darién" story in English?
A quick Google search yields several results, not vetted or affiliated with Yucatán Today:
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