Celebrate Our Lady of Candelaria, Patron Saint of Valladolid
Candlemas is a religious celebration commemorating "the presentation of Jesus at the temple" and honoring Our Lady of Candelaria, or Our Lady of the Candle, who, according to believers, appeared in Spain in the 15th century. This tradition was brought to Yucatán by conquistadors and missionaries in the 16th century, gradually blending with the customs of the indigenous Maya.
Over time, the celebration has evolved, reflecting the fusion of two worlds. Today, it stands as a testament to the resilience and richness of Yucatecan culture, adapting to the changes of time while maintaining its roots.
In Mérida, this celebration is held grandly at the Temple of Candelaria in the central San Juan barrio. However, it’s in the Magical Town of Valladolid where the festivities truly go all out in honor of this invocation of the Mother of Jesus, who, along with Saint Servatius and Saint Bernardino, is the patroness of the city.
Celebration of Our Lady of Candelaria in Valladolid, México
In Valladolid, the celebration of Our Lady of Candelaria peaks on February 2 each year, though the celebrations extend for a full week or more. To experience it for myself, last year I drove just under two hours to Valladolid. The road was adorned with hundreds of thousands of tajonal flowers, with yellow petals and an orange center, being visited by various pollinators, while the Yucatecan jungle landscape stretched out.
Upon my arrival in Valladolid, I could hear the traditional voladores (traditional fireworks) throughout the afternoon. As in other places, the faithful in Valladolid have the tradition of bringing their figures of the infant Jesus to be blessed at the temple, along with their white candles. This, along with most of the activities, is organized and carried out by various gremios (guilds), whose main purpose is to prepare for these religious events. On this occasion, I witnessed the participation of the Guild of Devotion, the Guild of Ladies and Young Women, the Guild of Workers and Farmers, the Youth Guild, and the Guild of Children.
As evening fell, a caravan of decorated cars carrying the statue of Our Lady of Candelaria was accompanied by participants lighting voladores to announce their passage. They were escorted by police who cleared the way through the city’s neighborhoods, ending at the Church of Candelaria.
The Church of Candelaria in Valladolid, Yucatán
The Church of Candelaria is located at the corner of Calle 44 x 35, a few blocks northwest of Valladolid’s central park. Inside the church, in the inner courtyard, believers traditionally bring a lit candle and place it at the foot of the altar as an offering to ask for and give thanks for everything they have received. The atmosphere here is solemn. "You make a cross with your fingers, and then up, down, left, and right," a mother was telling her son, teaching him to make the sign of the cross. Together, they left an offering, bringing life to this tradition that has been part of Valladolid’s identity for decades.
In front of the church is Candelaria Park, a central spot for the celebrations. Wherever you go, you’ll feel a contagious atmosphere of festivity and joy, full of families, both young and old. Due to the constant masses, your visit will be accompanied by the aroma of incense and the sight of hundreds of colorful banners fluttering in the wind.
Tamales, the stars of the Candelaria celebration in Valladolid
The park will be filled with stands offering all kinds of products and food. However, there is one dish that steals all the attention this night: tamales. According to tradition, during the celebration of Epiphany or Three Kings’ Day on January 6, a rosca de reyes (King’s cake) is shared, with small plastic figurines shaped like little dolls hidden inside. Whoever finds a "baby" in their slice of cake is obligated to provide tamales for Candlemas.
Tamales are varied, but you can find them with turkey, chicken, pork, colados, with or without espelón (a local bean), and even in the “pib” style (mukbilpollo). Of course, they are always wrapped in banana leaves and served with a red tomato sauce and a touch of habanero (optional). Not wanting to miss out on this tradition, I bought a tamal with espelón and chicken to try. In addition to delicious, my tamal was very reasonably priced at $30 pesos, and large enough for two people. It’s definitely a great option for those who love Yucatecan-style tamales.
Candlemas at the Expo Feria Valladolid
Today, the celebration of Our Lady of Candelaria involves much more than just a religious festival. The Candlemas celebration includes a part that has little to do with Marian devotion and offers a wide variety of entertainment activities, including musical concerts, folkloric groups, dance performances, comedians, children's shows, and even carnival rides. This encourages the participation of entire families, who dress up for the occasion to celebrate the patron saint of their city.
Many of these activities take place at the Expo Feria Valladolid, a venue specially created for this type of event, which happens on the same dates to commemorate the patron saint celebrations of the town of Valladolid.
If you want to be part of this traditional celebration, a great day to join in is February 2, as it is the most important day of the festival. The rituals are held at the Church of La Candelaria, or just outside of it, in Candelaria Park, starting around 6 pm. The church is very close to the city center, so no additional transport is necessary. All activities are open and free to the general public, unlike the cultural and entertainment events held at the Expo Feria Valladolid, which vary in price depending on the event.
The Candlemas celebration in Valladolid is a rich blend of tradition and culture, combining Spanish and Maya elements. It is more than just a religious event; it’s a time of community unity, where tradition and modernity meet. Through its colors, flavors, and music, Candlemas not only celebrates faith, but also strengthens the culture of Valladolid. This celebration is a living expression of the local identity, preserving the city’s heritage for future generations.
Photography by Nora Garrett, Cassie Pearse, AJ Kim, Juan Manuel Mier y Terán and Yucatán Today, for its use in Yucatán Today.
First published in Yucatán Today print and digital magazine no.445, in January 2025.
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