Chabihau’s Sweet Coastal Treat
In Chabihau, a small and peaceful fishing village on Yucatán's coast between San Crisanto and Santa Clara, the air carries the scent of the sea, the nearby wetlands, and the day's fresh catch. But every afternoon, another aroma begins to drift through town: the irresistible smell of butter sizzling on the hot griddle of don José Montejo, the proud creator of the birza.
The origin of the Chabihau birza
Don José embodies the spirit of the Yucatecan entrepreneur: resourceful, curious, and so warm and welcoming that meeting him becomes as memorable as tasting his creations. From a young age, his restless curiosity drew him into the world of traditional sweets, making and selling the colorful fan-shaped wafers that are a staple of fairs and patron saint festivals throughout Yucatán's inland towns.
Over the years, that same curiosity led him to master the artisanal crafts of helados (the wide category of frozen treats that includes sorbets and ice cream) and marquesitas. With the unwavering support of his wife and children, these family recipes have sustained their household for decades.
But life as a street vendor is never easy. It demands constant creativity and the ability to adapt. During one particularly difficult year, amid financial uncertainty, a friend approached Don José with an unusual request:
"Can you make me a marquesita with helado?"
Without hesitation, Don José accepted the challenge. The biggest obstacle was figuring out how to keep the hot marquesita from melting the ice cream instantly—and how to prevent the moisture from softening the crisp wafer. After several experiments, he found an ingenious solution: he rolled the freshly made wafer into a cone, lined the inside with Edam cheese (queso de bola), let it cool for a couple of minutes, then added a scoop of homemade coconut ice cream and finished it with a sprinkling of grated Edam.
The result was an instant explosion of flavors: the crunch of the wafer, the salty richness of the cheese, and the refreshing sweetness of the coconut. The birza was born, named in honor of his friend Birzabith, whose craving inspired the creation.
Word spread quickly along the coast. Long lines soon formed around Don José's cart as locals and visitors alike patiently waited for a chance to try the new dessert. Social media amplified the buzz, and demand grew so much that Don José eventually had to redesign his three-wheeled cart so it could carry both his griddle and his ice cream freezer.
Birzas, virzas, or birsas?
Behind the dessert's popularity lies another story of resilience. Don José's original business was called La Guadalupana, but a serious highway accident destroyed his first cart. Afterward, his brother lent him a replacement sign reading El Chavito, complete with the iconic Mexican television character—a sign that still accompanies him today.
Interestingly, the cart advertises them as "virzas," while others spell them "birsas." However you spell their name, what truly matters is giving yourself the chance to try one.
Today, you can find marquesitas with ice cream in well-known parks around Mérida, including Parque de las Américas and Parque de la Alemán. But Don José's birzas retain a magic that simply can't be duplicated: the pride of the original recipe, served beneath swaying palm trees just steps from the sea.
The coconut sorbet used in every birza is still made entirely by hand by his family, using fresh coconuts harvested along the coast. They peel, grate, and churn each batch themselves, refining their technique over the years while preserving the authentic flavor that made the dessert famous.
Don José's workdays are long. Every morning he begins preparing his batters and helados before heading toward Dzidzantún and Sinanché, where he starts serving customers in the afternoon. He often doesn't return home until close to midnight, ending another day with the satisfaction of sharing his signature creation with anyone who stops by.
Between country fairs, coastal highways, and the sea breeze, Don José continues to prove that the true flavor of Yucatán isn't found only in its ingredients—it's found in the hardworking hands, ingenuity, and generous spirit of the people who make them, sweetening the lives of everyone lucky enough to cross their path.
Don José Montejo
Birzas “El Chavito”
Tel. 991 104 3387
First published on the Yucatán Today website in September 2026.
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