Semana Santa 2008
Easter Week

Easter is one of the most important Christian holidays commemorating the resurrection of Jesus Christ after he was crucified. In Mexico, where 90% of the population is baptized Catholic, although many don't actually practice, Easter is taken very seriously - and literally - with colorful, passionate processions reenacting the Passion of Jesus Christ's last days on earth.

"In the tradition in this country, Christ is the most important figure in our religion," says Roger Metri, a spokesman for the Institute of Culture for Yucatan state. "And it's the representation of how in the Catholic culture we were saved by Christ from sin. And that it's our passport to heaven, so people think that by doing this they will be forgiven for their sins."

The week leading up to Easter, known in English as Holy Week, is called Semana Santa in Latin American countries and is celebrated with processions, Masses and other events that mark Jesus Christ's triumphant return to Jerusalem, his trial, his walk carrying the cross, and his crucifixion.

In Merida and in many villages, people recreate the Via Cruses, complete with actors and costumes of those ancient times. They also acknowledge the 13 stations, the places where Jesus fell as he bore his burden. It can be quite striking to see a mass of people dressed in the clothing of Jesus' time, walking behind an actor playing Jesus as he struggles doubled over from the weight of an enormous cross, with a crown of thorns on his head. Roman soldiers stand by and the Apostles are there as well. The actors are then hung on the crosses. Townspeople walk in the procession too, playing the role of the penitents who marched behind Jesus. It is moving to watch.

Palm Sunday, Domingo de Ramos in Spanish, starts off Semana Santa on Sunday March 16th, this year and the week builds toward Maudy Thursday, Good Friday and of course, Easter Sunday, known as Dia de Gloria - Day of glory. On Palm Sunday everyone goes to Mass in the morning for the blessing of the Palm leaves; when dry, the leaves are made into crosses that people use as amulets, adorning their cars and homes.

On Maudy Thursday and Good Friday (March 20th & 21th), the activities become more elaborate. On Maudy Thursday the "washing of the feet" ceremony is celebrated. You can see this at the Cathedral on the Main Square at the 6 PM Mass. During Mass, the highest-ranking priest washes the feet of twelve common people in representation of the 12 apostles.

Above: Our cover picture, taken in the village of Acanceh, shows the passion of Christ on Good Friday. Photo by Socorro Chable.

On Good Friday, March 21th, the Passions plays are enacted. The best places to view these passion plays are in Merida at the Cathedral and in Santiago neighborhood and on the Convent Route in Acanceh (our cover) and Mani. See our Convent Route article. Activities start mid-morning and culminate at 3 PM when Christ supposedly died.

Mani's reenactment is combined with a little local history. The procession goes from the Main Plaza to the atrium of the Franciscan monastery where Frey Diego de Landa burned all the Mayan codices during the Conquest in the "auto de fe de Mani" - the act of faith in Mani. Acanceh is interesting because of the way the Mayan people combine their ancient traditions with those of Catholicism. There are also some very interesting Mayan pyramids in Acanceh. On Good Friday Acanceh commemorates the Via cruses with a procession. The most colorful procession is in Mani. In Merida people go to Mass on Thursday for the cleansing of the feet ceremony. On Friday and Saturday the churches are all open for praying and many residents carry their own Virgin Mary statues in informal processions.

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