Progreso

The secret is out! For years this port town was just a sleepy fishing village. Then in the 50's the Meridanos started building summer homes along the coast to get away from the scalding heat of tropical Mérida during July and August. They also use the houses for two weeks at Easter. The other 10 months of the year the fishing villages along the coast are quiet and the beaches are beautiful and empty.

In the late 60's and early 70's, a small number of Americans and Canadians "discovered" Progreso, Chicxulub and Chelem to be a winter paradise. They made a pact to keep the secret. They were enticed by the warm weather, cheap rents, friendly Yucatecan people, the laid-back way of life, and the safe atmosphere.

Today you will find Progreso to be a bustling town of about 50,000 people. It is on the "cruise ship map" and many people are beginning to visit Progreso on their cruises. Fancy restaurants are springing up along the seaside promenade or El Malecón, façades are being spruced up, and people are selling handcrafts, seashells and T-shirts along the beach.

Despite all that, Progreso is still a laid-back port town where you can enjoy the true flavor of Mexico. Progreso has safe, tranquil beaches with no currents or tides, which makes them great for swimming, floating, windsurfing and jet-skiing. Palm trees, fresh seafood, the seaside boulevard called the malecón (mah-lay-CONE) and the friendly local Mayan residents make Progreso a great place to visit.

The average temperature in Progreso is 87º F with the rainy season in June through September. You may experience cold fronts or nortes (NOR-tays) from November to April, so bring a sweater! The local industry is fishing, and Progreso boasts over 900 fishing boats. The fish caught in this area is exported to the US, Japan and Europe. But you get to eat it right on the beach! 

Progreso has a lighthouse, built from 1885-1891. It stands 40 meters or 120 feet tall, and can be seen for 20 nautical miles.

In Progreso you will find a large grocery store, a large market, hotels, restaurants, a hospital, police station, bus station, post and telegraph offices, handicrafts stores, taxis, money exchange, real estate info, hardware stores, pharmacies, and bakeries. 
Everyone who comes to Progreso wants to know why the pier is sooooo long! Progreso, like the rest of the Yucatán Peninsula, sits on a limestone shelf that very gradually goes out to sea. The pier had to be built that long to get past the shelf and allow the ships to dock in deep water. The water at the end of the pier is only 28-32 feet deep! The first part of the pier was built between 1936 and 1942, and the second part was built just within the last ten years.

When you are in Progreso, be sure to give yourself time to stroll along the malecón. This 16-block seaside walkway is lined the entire way by a comfortable cement bench... well, okay, maybe it’s not that comfortable. But after a long walk, it’s more comfortable than standing! It’s the best place in town for people watching, and it’s where the local families congregate in the evenings to visit, exercise and solve the problems of the world.

How to get to Progreso:
To reach Progreso, take Paseo de Montejo or Calle 60 north out of Merida and just keep going until you get to the beach. Easy.
If you want to take public transportation you can ride with the AutoProgreso bus that runs every 12 minutes out of the station (calle 62 by 65 and 67) for only $13 pesos for a direct 50 minute ride, or with stops for $11 pesos. They run along Calle 60 so that is where you want to be if you are taking the one with stops to avoid going downtown to the station. The first run leaves Mérida at 5 am and Progreso at 5:00 am and the last run from both is at 10 pm.

Near Progreso:
El Corchito, an ecological preserve that has been around for over 10 years. Located just 2 KM east of the entrance to Progreso, this preserve was visited by the Governor of Yucatán recently and is starting to gain notoriety. El Corchito is operated by local fishermen who now work to nurture the mangrove swamp by reinforcing canals which improve water circulation and encourage the growth of native plants.

Just a 5-minute boat ride in one of the several lanchas (boats) takes you into the cool shadows of the mangroves where the fishermen have built palapas and picnic tables from native wood. You can swim in any of three designated fresh-water pools, sling your hammock in the shade to relax, or wander the well-kept paths to see local fish and waterfowl. If you're really quiet, you might see a deer come to drink at one of the more isolated pools. Bring lunch and be sure to bring your camera!

To reach El Corchito, turn east toward Chicxulub at the entrance to Progreso (where the Pemex station is). Go 2 KM to the second roundabout (glorieta in Spanish) where you will see a sign to El Corchito. Veer to your right and continue on a few meters. You'll see a dirt road on your right that will take you to the boat landing area. Boat rides begin at 8:30 am every morning and run until dusk. Cost is $20 pesos per person for the boat ride.

Looking for something else to do besides the above? It’s a short ride to the Mayan ruins of Dzibilchaltun or Xcambo.

Also check our Progreso Marinas and Water Sports article.

Hotels
:

Hotel Progreso
Email: hotel.progreso@hotmail.com


Condhotel Progreso

Website: www.condhotelprogreso.com 


Hotel Yakunah

Off the malecón, expat meeting point.
Email: info@hotelyakunah.com.mx
Website: www.hotelyakunah.com.mx

Hotel Real del Mar
On the malecón


Restaurants
:

Amigos Bar & Grill
Off the malecón, expat meeting point.
Calle 78 by 25 and 27

Marina Silcer

Editorial: Marina Silcer
Website: www.marinasilcer.com


Los Flamingos
On the malecón


Saint Bonnet
On the malecón


Healthcare:

Centro Medico Americano
Half block from the Main Plaza

Art:

Contemporary Art Studio
Painting, Graphic & Sculpture
Calle 28 No. 305 by 26 and 28
Website: www.jpmieryteran.com